Tribal Pastoralists in Transition: The Baharvand of Luristan, Iran

Figure 9.13. Frank Hole stands with his horse during the rest stop on Kialon Kuh. Photo by Sekandar Amanolahi-Baharvand.

Figure 9.14 (above). At the pass over Kialon we could see successive ranges of hills and ridges that we would cross in ensuing days. To signify a successful crossing, the people often add a stone to a pile or drive in stakes.

Figure 9.15 (below). The trail down from Kialon Kuh is a slippery, scree-covered trail that descends through a forest.

Figure 9.16. Takhte Chou is a deeply dissected limestone valley with sparse vegetation. A trail wends along the bottom next to the Sar-i-Gol River.

Figure 9.17. After the baggage had gotten wet during a river crossing, it was laid out to dry.

Figure 10.1. Throughout parts of Luristan there are tombs that once held bronze horse trappings and other artifacts used by an unnamed horse-riding people. Most of the tombs have been looted.

Figure 10.2. A typical overnight camp in a forest of budding oaks.

Figure 10.3. Each household sets up its site. Once the screens are up, it is time for the women to collect water from a spring, heat water for tea, and start baking bread. The bedding is stacked against the back screen.

Figure 10.4. Luristan once was renowned for its forests, of which only vestiges are left. This giant oak, with Mohammad Ali as scale, reminds us what has been lost.

Figure 10.5. Acorns are ground on boulders with heavy stones that are rocked back and forth over the acorns.

Figure 10.7. In the evening Sekandar (left) often sat by a fire with Mohammad Ali (center) and Mohammad’s brother Panjali.

Figure 10.8. Crossing a small stream where the animals could rest and take a drink.

Figure 10.10. Sekandar stands next to a flowering almond, one of the first trees to bud out.

Figure 11.1. The Tayi Valley is occupied by farmers whose fields are outlined with stones. Our group avoided the fields and walked in the streambed.

Figure 11.2. In the evening, Mohammad Ali, Panjali, and Ghasamali (left to right) socialize.

Figure 11.3. An old grist mill, recently converted into a small hut. Water from a small canal dropped down the tower and powered a wooden wheel that turned the grist stone. Taking advantage of the disused mill, a herder built a small house.

Figure 11.4. The Sedaron Valley. A small canal in the center carried water to the grist mill.

Figure 11.5. Across from Morad Khan’s camp in Sedaron were the mud-brick houses of the Mirs.

Figure 11.6. Morad Khan’s camp. His black goat-hair tent and our white canvas tent are side by side.

Figure 11.8. Ghamartaj churns butter under flapping laundry in front of Morad Khan’s tent.