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Wrapped in Beauty: The Koelz Collection of Kashmiri Shawls
Grace Beardsley in collaboration with Carla M. Sinopoli
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This richly illustrated volume examines the remarkable Kashmiri shawls of the Walter Koelz Collection of the University of Michigan Museum of Anthropological Archaeology. Part I presents the history, production, forms, and ornamentation of Kashmiri shawls, focusing on the impact of social contexts and the advent of the Jacquard loom on shawl development. Part II is a detailed descriptive catalogue of the shawls in the Koelz Collection. An accompanying CD-ROM includes color illustrations of the shawls in the collection as well as a transcribed manuscript by Koelz.
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Contents
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List of Tables and Illustrations in Part I
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Preface
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Acknowledgments
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Part I: Kashmir Shawls in Context
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Chapter 1. Introduction
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About the Koelz Collection
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The Organization of this Work
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Chapter 2. Walter N. Koelz and His Collections, by Carla M. Sinopoli
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A Biographical Sketch
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The UMMA Koelz Collection
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Chapter 3. "Turbans" (Patkas)
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Chapter 4. Kashmir and Persian Shawls in Their Historical Context
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The Historical Background of the Kashmir Shawl
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Early Development: Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries
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Nineteenth-Century Production
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The Koelz Collection in its Broader Contexts
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Parts of a Shawl
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Size and Shape
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Weight
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Shawl Materials
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Understanding Weave
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Producers and Consumers
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The Production Process
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The Loom
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The Talim
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Working Conditions
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Expanding Demand and its Impact on Production
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Chapter 5. Dissecting the Kashmir Shawl, Part 1: Piecework and Structural Proportions
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Piecework as a Time-Saving Device
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The Needlework of Piecing
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Piecework Structures
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Rectilinear Piecing in Long Shawls
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Piecing in Square Shawls: Moon to Quatrefoil Format
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A Multi-Moon Design Layout
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A Quatrefoil Square Shawl
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Other Variants on the Moon Shawl
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The Elaboration of Fringe Gates
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Changing Structures: Increased Figure Area
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The Influence of the Jacquard Loom on Shawl Design
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Chapter 6. Dissecting the Kashmir Shawl, Part 2: Decorative Motifs
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The Boteh Motif
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Symbolism of the Boteh: A Ubiquitous Natural Shape
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Radial Flower Motif
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Shared Motifs
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Beading
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Red-Flower-Green-Leaf Bel
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Wishbone-Rose Border
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Four-Fragrant-Flower Repeat
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References Cited
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Glossary
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Part II: Catalogue
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Turbans/Patkas
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Long Shawls
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Long Shawls Woven Whole
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Yardage Long Shawls
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Field Gallery Long Shawls
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Block Pieced Long Shawls
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Reworked Long Shawls
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Strata-Field Long Shawls
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Square Shawls
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Moon Shawls Woven Whole
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Moon Shawls Woven Whole except for Attached Hashias
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Moon Shawls Pieced across the Middle
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Square Shawls with Broad Field Gallery
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Piecework Square Shawls
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Strata-Field Square Shawls
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Pieced Conglomerate Square Shawls
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Square Machine-Woven False Kashmir Shawl
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Citable Link
Published: 2005
Publisher: University of Michigan Museum of Anthropological Archaeology
- 978-0-915703-60-9 (paper with cd)
- 978-1-949098-79-2 (ebook)