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Fashion Nation: Picturing the United States in the Long Nineteenth Century
Sandra Tomc
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Fashion Nation argues that popular images of the United States as a place of glitter and lights, of gaudy costumes and dizzying visual surfaces—usually understood as features of technomodernity—were in fact brewed in the rich, strange world of early nineteenth-century British and European folk nationalism when nations were compelled to offer visual manifestations of their allegedly true ancestral form. Showing that folk and ethnic nationalism played a central role in writing and culture, the book draws on a rare and colorful visual archive of national costumes, cartoons, theatrical spectacles, and immersive entertainments to show how the United States sprung to life as a visual space for transatlantic audiences. Fashion Nation not only includes chapters on major U.S. travel writers like Nathaniel Parker Willis and James Fenimore Cooper, but it also presents explorations of the vogue for folk and ethnic costume, the role of Indigenous dress in Wild West spectacles, and the nationalistic décor on display at late nineteenth-century world's fairs and amusement parks. Engagingly written and beautifully illustrated, Fashion Nation opens the door to a forgotten legacy of visual symbols that still inhabit ethnic and white nationalism in the United States today, showing how fantasies of glittery surfaces were designed to draw the eye away from a sordid history.
Fig. 33. William Notman, Sitting Bull and Buffalo Bill. 1897. Black and white photograph. Library of Congress Prints and Photograph Division LC-DIG-ds-07833.
Fig. 34. R. H. Furman, William F. Cody, John B. Omohundro, Elisha Green, Eugene Overton, and James B. Butler. 1872. Black and white photograph. Buffalo Bill Center of the West, Cody, Wyoming, USA; Buffalo Bill Museum; MS 006 William F. Cody Collection; P.6.0908.
Fig. 35. E. Z. C. Judson, William F. Cody, Mlle. Giuseppina Morlacchi, and John B. Omohundro. Amos Photo Service, c. 1873. Black and white photograph. Buffalo Bill Center of the West, Cody, Wyoming, USA; Buffalo Bill Museum; MS 006 William F. Cody Collection; P.69.0028.
Fig. 38. William Herman Rau, Eight Cossacks. 1901. Black and white photograph. Buffalo Bill Center of the West, Cody, Wyoming, USA; Buffalo Bill Museum; MS 006 William F. Cody Collection; P.69.0052.
Fig. 39. Charles Dudley Arnold, “Old Vienna on the Midway,” Official Views of the World’s Columbian Exposition, Issued by the Department of Photography. Ed. C. D. Arnold and H. D. Higinbotham. Chicago: Press Chicago Photo-Gravure, 1893. Plate 108. Author’s collection.
Fig. 40. Charles Dudley Arnold, “The Samoan Village on the Midway,” Official Views of the World’s Columbian Exposition, Issued by the Department of Photography. Ed. C. D. Arnold and H. D. Higinbotham. Chicago: Press Chicago Photo-Gravure, 1893. Plate 96. Author’s collection.
Fig. 42. Charles Dudley Arnold, “The Ceylon Building,” Official Views of the World’s Columbian Exposition, Issued by the Department of Photography. Ed. C. D. Arnold and H. D. Higinbotham. Chicago: Press Chicago Photo-Gravure, 1893. Plate 79. Author’s collection.
Fig. 43. Charles Dudley Arnold, “Donegal Castle,” Official Views of the World’s Columbian Exposition, Issued by the Department of Photography. Ed. C. D. Arnold and H. D. Higinbotham. Chicago: Press Chicago Photo-Gravure, 1893. Plate 95. Author’s collection.
Fig. 45. Charles Dudley Arnold, “In the Turkish Bazaar,” Official Views of the World’s Columbian Exposition, Issued by the Department of Photography. Ed. C. D. Arnold and H. D. Higinbotham. Chicago: Press Chicago Photo-Gravure, 1893. Plate 102. Author’s collection.
Fig. 46. Charles Dudley Arnold, “Looking West from the Peristyle,” Official Views Of The World’s Columbian Exposition, Issued by the Department of Photography. Ed. C.D. Arnold and H.D. Higinbotham. Chicago: Press Chicago Photo-Gravure, 1893. Plate 102. Author’s collection.
Fig. 52. Electric Tower at Night, Luna Park. 1893. Black and white photograph. Detroit Publishing Company. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division LC-DIG-det-4a11114.
Fig. 53. Dreamland Park, Coney Island New York. c. 1905–10. Black and white photograph. Detroit Publishing Company. Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division LC-DIG-det-4a11114.
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